A Visit to the 'Land of Kings, Saints, and Deities' in the Realm of Birds

Discover the Thung Nham Ninh Binh Eco-tourism Zone – Northern Vietnam's largest natural bird sanctuary, boasting a magnificent wetlands ecosystem and a cluster of sacred spiritual sites.
Thung Nham Ninh Binh – A Land of Birds and Sacred Spirituality Steeped in Legend
Thung Nham Ecotourism Zone in Ninh Binh is not only renowned as a haven for birds, but it's also celebrated as a sacred land where kings, saints, and deities are said to have originated. This spiritual hub features numerous temples, pagodas, and shrines, all intertwined with mystical legends.
Thung Nham is nestled within the Hai Nham valley and hill area, specifically in Hai Nham village, Ninh Hai commune, Hoa Lu district, Ninh Binh province. Located approximately 15km from the Trang An Ecotourism Complex, it's a key attraction within the core zone of the Trang An World Heritage Site.
This area boasts a wonderfully fresh climate and picturesque landscapes, with lush green mountains and crystal-clear waters. Featuring a natural wetland forest ecosystem spanning approximately 334.2 hectares, including 19 hectares of primary forest, Thung Nham Bird Garden is home to around 46 bird species, 109 plant species, and 150 animal species. It's particularly famous as a sanctuary for numerous birds like storks, night herons, lesser whistling ducks, mynas, and teals, along with two rare species listed in the Red Book: flamingos and phoenixes. For many years, Thung Nham Bird Garden has been renowned as the largest natural bird sanctuary in Northern Vietnam.

Thung Nham Bird Garden – Where Nature Calls.
Beyond its reputation as Ninh Binh's bird paradise and a captivating ecotourism destination, Thung Nham is also celebrated for its unique cultural, historical, and spiritual landmarks.
Within the Thung Nham Ecotourism Zone lies a renowned and sacred spiritual area, featuring Gối Đại Temple, Linh Thần Shrine, and the 'Moving Banyan Tree,' all of which have been revered and passed down through generations by local residents to this day.
This spiritual site is centrally located within the Thung Nham Ecotourism Zone, boasting a beautiful setting and auspicious feng shui. The area is positioned with its 'back against the mountains and facing the river' – backed by the majestic Hoa Lu primary forest range and fronted by the tranquil, jade-green Tien Lake. The entire hill resembles a blooming lotus flower, standing out in the valley. For these reasons, this area is believed to be a land of saints and deities, a sacred and serene place where divine spirits reside.
Here, locals combine the worship of Mother Goddesses with the veneration of Quy Minh Deity. Additionally, Đức Thánh Việt Vương, a talented general from the Dinh Dynasty, is also worshipped. Over several decades, this spiritual site has become a vital center for cultural and religious activities in the spiritual life of Nham village residents.
Perched at the highest point near the hilltop is Gối Đại Temple. The name Gối Đại is a combination of 'gối' (meaning 'to continue' or 'succeed') and 'đại' (from 'triều đại,' meaning 'dynasty'), signifying continuity from one era to the next. Thus, the temple's name reflects the ancient people's aspiration for the nation to remain independent, peaceful, and prosperous for generations.

Gối Đại Temple is situated at the highest point near the hilltop.
The current temple was rebuilt on the foundations of an older one, following the 'Dinh' chữ (Chinese character) architectural style. In front of the temple stands a stone gate shaped like a scroll, intricately carved with coiling dragon motifs, flanked by two stone screens depicting crouching tigers. This is a common architectural style for Vietnamese temples and pagodas, creating a solemn and serene space for worship, while also serving as a rustic and intimate community cultural hub.
The temple's sanctuary (hậu cung) is dedicated to the Three Mother Goddesses (Tam Tòa Thánh Mẫu): Mẫu Đệ Nhất Thượng Thiên (Mother of the Celestial Realm), dressed in red, is placed in the center; Mẫu Đệ Nhị Thượng Ngàn (Mother of the Forest and Mountains), wearing green, is on the right; and Mẫu Đệ Tam Thoải Phủ (Mother of the Water Realm), dressed in white, is on the left.
The outer altar of the temple is dedicated to the Five Immortal Elders (Ngũ Vị Tiên Ông) and the Three Royal Princes (Ba Ông Hoàng). The right wing honors Đức Thánh Việt Vương, while the left wing is dedicated to Bà Chúa Bản Đền (the guardian goddess of the sacred temple). Additionally, to the right of the temple, there is a 'Sơn Trang Cave' (Mountain Retreat Cave) dedicated to Bà Chúa Sơn Trang (Mountain Goddess) and 12 holy maidens.
A unique aspect of the temple is its diverse blend of religious cultures, from the worship of Mother Goddesses to the veneration of Deities. Legend has it that the temple is extremely sacred. During Tết holidays, festivals, or on the 4th and 15th days of each lunar month, local residents often come here to offer incense, flowers, fruits, and cakes. Everyone respectfully clasps their hands and bows their heads, seeking the Mother Goddesses' protection and guidance, and praying for prosperity in their livelihoods, as well as peace and good health for their families.
Within the temple, worship items such as stone lamps, incense burners, and carved column bases are all exquisite sculptures from Ninh Van stone handicraft village in Ninh Binh.
Next is Linh Thần Shrine – a sacred shrine that tells the story of a General. Legend has it that Đức Thánh Việt Vương was one of the meritorious officials who assisted King Dinh Bo Linh in quelling the rebellion of the 12 Warlords and unifying the nation of Đại Cồ Việt. In 968, after the king ascended the throne, the heroic general voluntarily came to this land to guard the western gate of Hoa Lu imperial city and lived in seclusion here until his death. Upon his passing, the king ordered a temple to be built right at the base of a banyan tree to express his sorrow and to remind future generations of the general's great contributions. Speaking of the heroic Dinh Bo Linh era, ancient historical records also recount the legend of the Tướng Mountain range within Trang An.

Linh Thần Shrine – A Sacred Shrine Recounting the General's Story.
At that time, this mountain range was considered a crucial outpost protecting the western side of Hoa Lu imperial city. In 966, the nation of Đại Việt plunged into the chaos of the 12 Warlords. Dinh Bo Linh raised the banner of rebellion, repeatedly achieving victories in battles across the East and North. He was revered by the people as Vạn Thắng Đại Vương (Great King of Ten Thousand Victories). Legend has it that after major victories, Dinh Bo Linh and his generals would ascend Tướng Mountain to feast their troops, celebrate, and sing songs of triumph throughout the night. The name 'Tướng Mountain' (General's Mountain) originated from these events.
Later, after Đức Thánh Việt Vương passed away and a shrine was built in his honor, the shrine was oriented towards Tướng Mountain, fulfilling the general's wish to forever remember his glorious era and to symbolize his enduring loyalty and patriotism. The current shrine holds significant historical value, preserving many precious artifacts.
The recorded artifacts include: five blue stone slabs forming an altar, and two incense burners (one cylindrical, one rectangular) made of fine blue stone, featuring the dominant 'two dragons adoring the moon' motif. Research indicates these two incense burners date back to the Later Lê Dynasty (around the 16th century). Linh Thần Shrine has always been diligently cared for and worshipped by local residents, with incense never ceasing to burn. This reflects the enduring gratitude of the people for the contributions of the talented general from long ago.
Standing majestically amidst the Thung Nham mountains and forests, casting its verdant shade over Gối Đại Temple and Linh Thần Shrine, is a thousand-year-old ancient banyan tree. Scientifically, fig and banyan trees, once they reach 300-330 years of age, undergo a process of trunk replacement. The old, decaying main trunk is gradually replaced by aerial roots that grow downwards, root into the soil, and develop into new trunks. This process is referred to as 'moving steps'.
Scientists studying the banyan tree in Thung Nham estimate it to be over 1000 years old. It has undergone three 'moving steps' and is currently in the late stage of its third step, transitioning into the fourth. The tree's original position was 20 meters from its current location.

The Moving Banyan Tree – Standing Tall for a Thousand Years.
This is precisely why the tree is known as the 'Moving Banyan Tree.' What's particularly remarkable is that, while trees naturally grow towards water sources, this banyan tree does not move towards Tien Lake. Instead, it moves in the opposite direction, circling Linh Thần Shrine and Gối Đại Temple. Its roots intertwine, forming a green screen that shields the structures behind it from storms, winds, and harmful gases.
This fascinating peculiarity has led locals to associate it with the unwavering loyalty of Đức Thánh Việt Vương – the virtuous general who faithfully served King Dinh. For decades, through countless storms, the ancient banyan tree has stood majestically. In summer, its lush canopy provides cool shade, and in winter, it acts as a protective screen. Even as it undergoes its 'moving steps,' the banyan tree only shifts around the shrine. The image of the banyan tree and the shrine always standing side-by-side, both steadfast and intimate, seems to symbolize the enduring bond between general and king that lives on in this place.
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Update day : 29/02/2024
Source : Công luận .VN Affiliate links
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